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coral - auspicious, sacred and endangered

fertility and eternal life
Perhaps due to its color reminiscent of menstrual blood, perhaps because water equates to life, ancient Mediterranean peoples believed coral contained the life essence of the Mother Goddess, said by some to live in a coral tree under the ocean's surface. Red coral was also associated with the Egyptian goddess Isis, prototype of the beneficent mother goddess, the "bringer of fertility and consolation to all."
One of a handful of gems of organic origin (such as pearl, amber and mother-of-pearl), coral is among the most ancient materials used for jewelry, religious objects and medicine.

coral beads, mediterranean

In the Neolithic city of Catalhoyuk (ca. 8,000-7,000 BC) in Central Anatolia (Turkey), one of the world's oldest towns, archeologists have unearthed the gravesites of babies and children who were buried with long strands of small polished beads made of stone, shell and coral.
More sophisticated pieces in the ancient world linking coral to precious metals -- a useful indicator of its relative value -- have been found in Sumerian excavations in Iraq and Syria (ca. 3500-2000 BC), probably sourced from the Egyptians.
Cuneiform tablets unearthed by archaeologist Austen Henry Layard in Nineveh, capital of the Assyrian Empire (near today's city of Mosul in Iraq), tell of the Sumerian hero, Gilgamesh, and his search for the "Tree of Life." As the story goes, Gilgamesh went "down" from Sumer to the [Persian] Gulf area where he had been told he would find a plant that would give him eternal life. Archaeologist Juris Zarins believes that

"'...what he found may have been coral, which in antiquity was a symbol of eternal life [and was thought to be a plant].' The tablets continue: '...and after his labors lie went to sleep and a serpent came along and stole his eternal life' -- possibly his coral."

Traded for distant goods like tin and Baltic amber by the Minoans (ca. 2000-1200 BC), coral was also traded by the Phoenicians (ca. 1200-600 BC), and later as we shall see, by the Romans.
seaweed turns to stone
Relatively common in waters with which the ancient Greeks would have been familiar, their name for coral -- gorgeia -- is associated with the myth of the hero Perseus slaying the gorgon Medusa (whose name means "sovereign female wisdom"), one of three monstrously hideous sisters whose appearance was so terrifying that anyone laying eyes on her would immediately turn to stone.
Medusa had once been a beautiful maiden whose hair was her chief glory, but when she had dared to compete with the beauty of Minerva -- Rome's goddess of wisdom and war (who equated with the Greek Athena and the Egyptian Ma'at) -- the goddess had destroyed Medusa's beauty and changed her beautiful ringlets into hissing serpents.
perseus and medusa
Taking great care not to look directly at Medusa when accidently happening upon the cruel gorgon as she slept near the ocean, the great hero Perseus, son of Jupiter and Danae, could dimly see her head reflected in Minerva's shield. Severing Medusa's fearsome viper-haired head with a mighty blow of his deadly crescent sword, Perseus placed the still blood-dripping snake-hissing head in his pouch for safekeeping.

In great need of rest after his harrowing experience, he laid the pouch down on some nearby branches covered by seaweed at the edge of the ocean and took a nap. But even in her lifeless state and concealed in the pouch, Medusa's awesome powers were still strong enough to turn the unfortunate bed of seaweed into solid stone.

Feeling great sympathy for the seaweed who, blameless, had done nothing to deserve its sad fate, graceful sea nymphs arose from the briny depths and rescued the now-fossilized strands, taking them gently down to the ocean floor where they became the first coral beds.
Coral's protective powers were thought to be especially good for children. Until relatively recently, it was not uncommon in countries on either side of the Mediterranean for parents to hang tiny coral branches on a child's cradle or place a string of small coral beads around a baby's neck soon after birth to "preserve and fasten their teeth," and save them from "the falling sickness."
Paracelsus (1493-1541) -- or more properly, Theophrastus Phillippus Aureolus Bombastus von Hohenheim -- Renaissance physician, surgeon and alchemist, promoted the use of coral which he said "should be worn round the neck of children as a preservative against fits, sorcery, charms, and poison." (He chose the name "para-Celsus" -- above or beyond Celsus -- because he regarded himself as even greater than Celsus, a renowned first-century Roman physician.
'black gold' -- neither 'sweet nor pretty'
Starting about 150 BC, the "Silk Road," as it eventually became known -- a growing network of interconnecting caravan trails over which goods and knowledge moved between Europe and the East, linked to trading posts, oases, and marketplaces -- began developing as a prime conduit for spices, quality textiles and gems moving westward, while from the Mediterranean came metals, wine, perfumes, glass, cut gems, Baltic amber -- and coral.
Exotic stops on the fabled Silk Road -- Tashkent, Tehran, Bukhara and Samarkand, to name a few -- became places of legendary wealth, based on the numerous caravans plying the route year after year. The nomadic desert peoples of Central Asia treasured coral, so vibrantly colored compared to their largely dun-hued monochromatic desert environment. For these people with their hard and uncertain lives, red coral came to represent a uniquely protective talisman.
In addition to the Silk Road, for at least three centuries -- from 100-400 AD -- there existed a thriving commercial trade complex linking ports of southern India to those catering to ancient Rome. The favorite destination for traders from the Roman world -- many of whom would have used Red Sea ports like Berenike in Egypt -- was the city of Calicut on India's famed 'Malabar Coast.'

1st century sea trade routes

But while a good portion of Indo-Roman trade was reciprocal, the trade balance by the first century AD was considerably skewed in India's favor -- due in large part to Rome's growing importation of luxury goods such as spices, aromatics, silks, gems, pearls and sandalwood.
Pliny the Elder (23-79 AD), Roman historian and naturalist, wrote in 77 AD that India [representing 'the East'] absorbed no less than fifty million sesterces of the Roman empire's wealth (about $29M in 1998 dollars) -- much in the form of hard Roman currency -- every year, in return "sending back merchandise to be sold with us at a hundred times its prime cost."
On the other hand, the Romans did have a few items that were highly desired in India. One of these was red coral from the western Mediterranean, highly prized by Indian women who Pliny says would "pay up to twenty times the weight in gold of the coral" -- ensuring the return of at least some Roman currency -- which they used to make jewelry and amulets.
Difficult to fathom today, the product that drove the trade imbalance -- more than any other luxury -- was piper nigrum, black pepper.
Frederick Rosegarten, spice historian said, "Romans were the most extravagant users of 'aromatics' in history," using spices in their food, wines, and perfumes. Rome was so extravagantly fond of pepper, in particular, that Pliny questioned his fellow citizens' passion, noting "pepper is neither sweet nor pretty" -- qualities that rich Romans usually looked for in their imports from the East -- "indeed, it has the virtues neither of fruit nor of berries, its only desirable quality being a certain pungency."
Backing Pliny's account, Simon Winchester, in his 2003 book "Krakatoa:The Day the World Exploded: August 27, 1883," says:

" Pepper...was of infinitely more moment to the ancients than to be merely a topping, nostrum, or cachou. The Romans used it in abundance: Gibbon wrote of pepper being "a favorite ingredient of the most expensive Roman cookery," and added his authority to the widely held idea that Alaric, the rambunctious king of the Visigoths, had demanded more than a ton of it from the Romans as ransom when he laid siege to the city in 410 AD..."

the eye of shiva
To the ancient Hindus in India, Nepal and Tibet -- the final destination of much of the ancient Mediterranean's coral -- the gem's auspicious red color made it highly esteemed as a charm against disease and danger.
Besides its ability to bring luck and keep away calamities and the 'evil eye,' red coral -- mungaa in Hindi, pravala in Sanskrit -- was also considered a valuable harbinger of illness or poisoning, believed to pale in color if the wearer was ill or had even been exposed to illness -- or darken as the wearer began to recover.
vamana and the demon king bali
Chief of the Celestials, Lord Vishnu, in the guise of the Divine Brahmin Dwarf, Vamana, asked the arrogant Demon King Bali, who ruled the sky and the earth, for a plot of land -- a mere three paces wide upon which to meditate.

Bali agreed whereupon with his first pace, Vamana, now back in the form of Vishnu, covered all of the earth. With his second he covered all the heavens. Bali, realizing he had been tricked, battled with Vishnu.

During the struggle, Vishnu prevailed, breaking Bali's body into pieces, taking on the shape of gems and jewels. Bali's blood that flowed down to the sea formed coral.
Today in India, reddish yellow coral is known as shivanetra or rudrakhsha -- the "eye of Shiva" the destroyer, third god in the Hindu Trimurti (the holy Trinity that includes Brahma and Vishnu) -- a symbol of spirituality and renunciation.
the navaratna
In Hindu / Vedic belief, the nava-ratna is a talisman based on the existence of nine heavenly planets called the "Navagraha" which are believed to have a significant influence on one's life. Combining the gemstones that represent each of the nine planets -- all of which are "famous for their radiance" -- the navaratna is esteemed as a bringer of good fortune.

The most well-known navaratna design has a ruby, representing the sun, in the center encircled by the other eight planetary gemstones: diamond for Venus, pearl for Moon, red coral for Mars / Mangala, hessonite for Rahu (the moon's ascending node), blue sapphire for Saturn, cat's-eye for Ketu (the moon's descending node), yellow sapphire for Jupiter and emerald for Mercury.
animal, vegetable or mineral?
The very nature of coral was up for question during Europe's Middle Ages -- a time when superstition predominated but inquiring minds had begun to explore. Fierce debates raged as to whether it was animal, vegetable or even mineral -- an important distinction when many still believed it necessary to carry a few pieces of coral when traveling to ward off witches.
It was not until 1726 that a young French doctor and naturalist from Marseilles, Jean-André Peyssonnel, discovered the answer. Writing to the famous French physicist René-Antoine Perchault de Réaumur (1683-1757), he recounted his observation:

"I noticed that what we believe to be the flower of this so-called plant is in reality an insect like a small nettle... I was pleased to see the feet of this nettle move and, having warmed the water where the coral was, all the insects opened up." (McConnel, 1990 ; Weinberg, 1993)

However, Réaumur, a true man of his times, criticized Peyssonnel's work and chose to ignore it. It was not until several years later, after Genevan biologist and educationalist Abraham Trembley (1710-1784) had conducted his ground-breaking research on fresh water hydra -- an animal soon proven to be closely related to corals -- that the jury concurred: corals were animals.
for christ and pepper!
A century and a half before coral's status had been resolved, the Mediterranean coral trade began heating up once again, thanks, in part, to Portuguese Admiral Vasco da Gama (1469-1524), in search of a direct route to Indian spice sources, particularly the coveted, pricey pepper for which Europe continued to long -- and whose trade Venice had long monopolized as Europe's premier maritime and commercial power.
Controlling the distribution of pepper -- the most widely traded commodity in fourteenth century Europe -- had made the Republic of Venice rich beyond compare. And Portugal -- "training-ground of a race of adventurous seamen" heady with 'discoverer's fever' begun at the instigation of Prince Henry the Navigator (1394-1460) -- was eager to claim its share of the wealth.
In 1498, under the auspices of King Manuel I of Portugal (1469-1521), da Gama -- at the helm of his flagship the Saõ Raphael and flying a silken banner displaying the Cross of the Order of Christ -- began his search for a direct sea route from Europe to India, via southern Africa's blustery Cape of Good Hope, first rounded by Portuguese navigator Bartolomeu Dias in 1488 and known to Portuguese explorers as Cabo Tormentoso, "Cape of Storms." Traveling up the east coast of Africa, da Gama picked up an Arab pilot in Mombasa (Kenya) who directed the fleet to India -- their rallying cry: "for Christ and spices!"
Arriving in Calicut -- in what is now the Indian state of Karala on India's Malibar Coast -- da Gama and his crew had spent a little more than ten months on their voyage from Portugal, thus beginning, as Indian historian K.M. Panikar has noted, the "Vasco da Gama epoch of Asian history -- that is, the era of history when European nations alone controlled the seas until the emergence of Japan and the United States as major naval powers at the end of the nineteenth century."

calicut
photo: old calicut

da Gama and his crew, stayed for six months in Calicut -- the greatest commercial port on the Malabar Coast -- a neutral, religiously tolerant haven where for hundreds of years the Arabs -- now the middlemen for products traded between the West and East -- and the Chinese had met to exchange goods.
Returning to Portugal exactly two years and two days after the his original departure, the distance da Gama had sailed was three times the distance traveled by Columbus during his 1492 voyage to the New World.
With a valuable cargo of precious stones and spices -- and the one-third of his crew who hadn't succumbed to scurvy -- da Gama also brought a message for King Manuel from the local Hindu ruler, the Zamorin of Calicut (the "Ocean King," who, with Arab help, had emerged as the dominant ruler in the territory, encouraging overseas trade), written on a palm leaf:

"Vasco da Gama, a gentleman of your household, came to my country, where at I was much pleased. My country is rich in cinnamon, cloves, ginger, pepper, and precious stones. That which I ask of you in exchange is gold, silver, corals, and scarlet cloth."

After fifteen-hundred years, the Silk Road -- by this time the main transportation artery between East and West -- had lost its importance to Europe. It would gradually sink into oblivion.
in the shadow of vesuvius
Thanks to Vasco da Gama and his fellow sea captains, a little after the start of the sixteenth century a new day was dawning for Torre del Greco. The world's premier coral-working seaport town on Italy's southwest coast was coming out of a thousand year slump. Hard-pressed to keep up with the increased demand, Europe's new-found ability to reach the teeming markets of Southeast Asia and the Far East were revitalizing the coral industry.

torre del greco, heart of the mediterranean coral industry

Now a suburb of Naples, the small sunny fishing village of Torre del Greco ("tower of the Greeks") at the base of Mt. Vesuvius had probably been established by the Greeks sometime in the fifth century BC, a few years after they founded nearby Neapolis (Naples) (on the ruins of an earlier Phoenician town called Partenope) on the fertile Campania plains between Mt. Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples.
Although Neapolis and the surrounding countryside fell to the Romans in 326 BC, the area remained a center of Greek culture, becoming a magnet for artists and patrons of the arts.
Torre del Greco, as well as some nearby villages -- Torre del Annunziata and Ercolano -- became known in particular for its beautiful carved coral cameos, a craft that had been introduced by the Greeks based on the seemingly unlimited supply of superb corals in the nearby waters.
Severely impacting the coral trade that would have been in full swing between Red Sea ports and India, the cataclysmic eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 AD, which buried now famous towns such as Pompeii and Herculaneum, also buried a number of coral-working towns, including Torre del Greco.

carved coral depiction of eros, greek god of love & desire
photo: ascione

Coming slowly back to life again, sometime between the second and fourth century AD, Torre del Greco was once again a coral-working town. However, the Dark Ages were about to descend. Overrun by Visigoths (led by Alaric -- he of "pepper" fame), Vandals, Ostrogoths and others, agricultural lands were depopulated and all nearby towns declined or ceased to be. The art of coral cameo carving died out.
Fast forward through the Dark Ages: as the Italian peninsula began coming back to life, Campania towns began rebuilding themselves once again near the rich soils of Vesuvius and the lucrative fishing on the Bay of Naples. With the opening of trade routes 'around the Cape,' in the late fifteenth century, Torre del Greco flourished, once again becoming known for its beautiful coral work.
While Torre del Greco is still known as the center of the Mediterranean coral industry there is little coral still harvested commercially in the Mediterranean. However, the town still processes over half of the world's coral harvest, most of which comes in from Japan and China.
the cornuto
The cornuto -- also known as the corno ("horn"), or cornicello ("little horn") -- is a long, gently twisted horn-shaped amulet of ancient origin, particularly popular in Italy. Usually carved out of red coral (and set in silver or gold), the amulets are traditionally worn by Italian men who feel a need to protect their genitalia from malocchio, "the evil eye" -- or just like the way it looks on their virile, manly chests.

Like many of the customs handed down through the ages, the Neapolitan tradition of making cornuto charms from silver (once sacred to the moon goddess, Luna) and blood coral (once sacred to the sea goddess, Venus) hints at the survival of a link between the ancient worship of a pre-Christian horned animal god (the "Horned One") and a mother- or fertility-goddess.
island of red corals
One can't leave the Mediterranean without talking about one other relatively close location that cashed in on the burgeoning demand for coral in the sixteenth century and for several hundred years after: the small Adriatic island of Zlarin off Croatia's Dalmation coast, once known as the "island of red corals."
Although archeological records indicate Zlarin boasted Stone Age inhabitants, by about 10 AD it was a watery outpost of Illyria, a loose confederation of tribes and clans, roughly covering the Balkan Peninsula of today, and ruled by the Romans.
Nine-hundred years later, the island served as one of Venice's many Adriatic naval posts, whose duty it was to ensure the safe navigation of Venice's numerous trading ships plying local seas that were all too often threatened by pirates, various sundry invaders of the Eastern Roman Empire -- or the Byzantines themselves.
By the late thirteenth century AD, it was Slav farmers and fishermen from the mainland and beyond, seeking out the relative safety of the island in an effort to escape the invading Ottoman Turks sweeping through the area on their way to conquer Constantinople and bring down the teetering Byzantine Empire.
Within a couple of hundred years, the harvesting and processing of coral -- known locally as crveni koralj -- had become the main occupation of the islanders, bringing Zlarin economic prosperity that lasted till the twentieth century when coral became depleted and many inhabitants were forced to emigrate.
Today, nothing remains of Zlarin's past glories except its Coral Museum and one small workshop for working coral shipped in from other parts of the world.
anatolian amulets: the turkish ??leme
Amulets and charms inspire much of the Anatolian breast jewelry, Often composed of groups of coral beads, blue beads and silver balls -- the design is referred to as ??leme in Turkish, meaning "triplet."

In the Anatolian countryside, especially, the triplet design can frequently be seen in the traditional headgear, belts, necklaces, and rings of Anatolian women; it even shows up in their embroidery patterns.

The meaning behind the three-part design that refers to one's hand, loins, and tongue is: "do not commit theft," "protect one's honor," and "do not lie."
the felicitous color
Red is the most significant color in Chinese culture. The color of luck, the color of new beginnings -- the "felicitous color" associated with the gods -- red is the essence of China. A symbol of health, wealth, favor and high social status in ancient China, red is still auspicious, imbued with centuries of meaning.
For the Chinese, coral was not only an auspicious color, it also had deep religious meaning -- especially after Buddhism took root in China.
buddhism in china Although Buddhism had initially been introduced during the first century AD, a time when the then reigning Han dynasty was in a state of chaos, it was only after their fall in 220 AD that the new religion began to gain widespread popularity, made possible largely through the growing importance of the 'Silk Road' and the new ideas that traveled along it.

While traders on the route returned to China with gold, ivory, coral and other luxuries, the most significant import they brought with them was Buddhism -- a religion offering redemption from the world of pain and suffering for even the common man -- a religion that revolutionized China's culture.

Following the traders, a continuous stream of Buddhist missionaries from India and Central Asia found enthusiastic converts at every level of Chinese society, an effort also aided by powerful patrons among the nomadic non-Chinese dynasties from Central Asia, in particular the Northern Wei, who ruled China from 386-534 AD.

Although trade had been responsible for bringing Buddhism into China, the rapidly growing numbers of Buddhist converts in and of itself stimulated trade.

Merchants were challenged to meet the growing demand for exotic foreign "high value / low volume" items such as glass, wool, incense and gems that came to represent the Buddhist saptaratna (the seven jewels of royal power) -- gold, silver, crystal, lapis lazuli, carnelian, pearls and Mediterranean coral -- much of which was destined to either adorn the rapidly proliferating Buddhist temples, images, and reliquaries, or enhance the coffers of some Buddhist monastery or convent.
Hundreds of years and many dynasties later, coral's magical appeal remained intact. In 1644, the Manchus, a nomadic ethnic group out of Manchuria, became masters of China, establishing China's last imperial dynasty, the Qing (1644-1911).
Although trappings of rank had always played a significant and colorful role in Imperial China, starting with the Ming dynasty and continuing into the Qing, they became even more important.

mandarin, qing dynasty
lilly library, duke university

Formally codified in 1757 by Emperor Qianlong (1736-1795), his collection of writings making clear the 'imperial pecking order' are ponderously titled "The Illustrated Catalogue of Ritual Paraphernalia of the Qing Dynasty," a treatise in which -- should there be any question -- he clearly outlines exactly what should be worn when and by whom.
For instance, court etiquette required that all officials at Manchu and Han banquets wear their official court regalia -- whose every infinitesimal design detail would have been stipulated -- including a string of 108 coral 'court beads.' Sir John F. Davis, Governor of Hong Kong in the 1840's observed:

"From the Tartar religion of the Lamas, the rosary of 108 beads has become a part of the ceremonial dress attached to the nine grades of official rank. It consists of a necklace of stones and coral, nearly as large as a pigeon's egg, descending to the waist, and distinguished by various beads, according to the quality of the wearer."

Mandarins and military officers -- China's top-ranking public officials -- of which there were nine ranks, were required to wear large "badges," square emblems of a certain color and motif, elaborately embroidered whose pattern was spelled out to the tiniest detail, according to their rank and function.

winter dingdai hualing of the second rank

These officials were also entitled to "wear the button," a large jeweled spherical finial knob, about an inch in diameter, affixed to the top of their official hat -- the dingdai hualing that included a peacock plume of one or two 'eyes.' The two highest ranks were those entitled to "wear the red button" -- the first rank stone being 'transparent red,' a ruby, and the second being 'opaque red,' a coral.

"The imposing Gate of Spiritual Valour through which I made my first entrance into the Forbidden City on 3 March 1919 led me into a new world of space and time. It was through that portal that I passed not only from a republic to a monarchy but also from the New China of the 20th century into a China that was old before the foundation of Rome....

"On the inner side of the same gateway were to be observed palanquins bearing stately mandarins with ruby and coral "buttons" and peacocks' feathers on their official hats..." Reginald F. Johnson as quoted from The Forbidden City: Center of Imperial China, Giles Beguin, Dominique Morel

adam schall, jesuit mandarin
Although certainly not common, it was not unheard of for foreigners to be honored with mandarin status. Johann Adam Schall von Bell (1591-1669), a Jesuit who spent forty-seven years in China -- taking on the Chinese name of Tang-Jo-Wang -- was an expert mathematician and astronomer who had been trained at Galileo's observatory.

Because his knowledge benefited the court (specifically the court astrologers), the last Ming emperor, Chongzhen (1628-1644) awarded Schall three Imperial Titles -- one of these being the title of Tung hiuen kiao shi, "most profound doctor" -- and the right to "wear the coral button."

Bell repeatedly tried to refuse the honor because he said it "accorded ill with religious humility." His mandarin status was later reconfirmed by the first Qing Dynasty (Manchu ) Emperor, Shunzhi (r. 1644-1661), who soon died.

Jealousy dogged Bell's court career. Condemned to be dismembered and beheaded in 1665 by the regents of Shunzhi's still small son -- who became known to history as Kangxi (1662-1722), one of China's greatest emperors -- Bell was accused of "causing the death of the late emperor by the casting of a spell."

However, providence intervened: on the designated day of his execution, a violent earthquake was felt at Peking, a 'thick darkness' covered the city, a meteor of strange aspect appeared in the heavens, and a fire in the part of the imperial palace where the sentence had been delivered reduced it to ashes.

Bell's sentence was commuted. He died the year after, apparently of natural causes.
the gift from 'mother ocean'
Approximately a thousand years before the Qing dynasty's emergence from Manchuria, due east on the far other side of China, there existed the mystical kingdom of Tibet, a country so far above sea level its average altitude is nearly three miles high -- 14,763 ft. Not a lot is known about Tibet until around 500-700 AD when a powerful, unified kingdom emerged, opening its heretofore unassailable Himalayan passes to the outside world.
Buddhism quickly found its way in, taking root so rapidly that by the end of the eighth century AD it had become the official state religion. However, the Tibetan version of Buddhism developed into a unique shamanistic form, blending the new religion with Tibet's history and culture, in such a way that it extended into every area of daily life. And so, items emblematic of the religion, such as coral, permeated daily life also.
Representing the source of life to Tibetans, coral is considered a gift from 'mother ocean' -- a brooding symbol of all that is impenetrable, all that can be felt but never known. A way to remind Tibetans of their 'eternal foundation,' it lives and breathes in the salty depths...but its roots are anchored in the earth.
Thought to teach form as well as "flow and flexibility within form," coral is one of the Buddha's "Five Sacred Stones" that symbolize the energy of the life force (the remaining four being crystal, for light; turquoise, for infinity of sea and sky; gold, for the golden ray of the sun; and silver, for the light of the moon).

antique tibetan amulet box
photo: potala

Coral is frequently a component of religious objects. Representing the "third eye," coral stands for the "eye of higher perception" often displayed in Tibetan religious art, especially paintings.
Tibetan thangkas, traditional intricately designed depictions of holy beings painted on cloth -- used as a 'guide' to contemplative exercises -- often show a stalk of byu-ru yan-lag brgyad-pa ("eight-branched coral"). Coral is also one of the primary stones used to embellish gau, portable shrines where verses and prayers are kept, close to the owner's heart.
Many stupas, especially those in the Potala Palace in Lhasa -- religious and political center of old Tibet and the winter palace of Dalai Lamas -- are decorated with enormous amounts of coral (often coupled with pearls). And, one of the most common neck ornaments in Tibet is a rosary or mala of one-hundred and eight coral and/or turquoise beads -- each bead a symbol of the never ending cycle of birth, death, and rebirth in their quest to achieve enlightenment.
With little if any differentiation between religious realms and everyday life in Tibet, coral, with all its great spiritual symbolism is worn by men and women alike as part of their daily attire, although 'how' may differ slightly from region to region. Coral also has a more pragmatic symbolism.

costume and ornaments of a gesaima and yasuo (note gasaima's large coral rosary)
photo: tibetan costume

Married women in the Amdo region -- northeastern Tibet -- wear slices of white conch shell adorned with coral, silver and other forms of decoration in their hair to "show love and respect for their husband." They also decorate the ends of their braids -- frequently done in 108 plaits (to match the rosary) -- with tiny bells, sliced conch shells, coral, jade and silver coins. And women of the Xiangcheng region wear two large coral branches from each ear.
Men often sport elaborately braided hair decorated with jade -- said to represent the soul -- and red or black hair tassels composed of coral and agate. They often sport a coral earring, set in silver or sometimes even gold, in their left ear. Coral is also set in silver in the belts and swords or knives of both sexes.
Historically, like the Han and Manchu, a hat was the most visible symbol of a man's position, learning and property. The main accoutrement of official rank in Tibet was the hat finial on the zhua-mo-lcags-mdav ("round hat"). Pearl -- the "wish-fulfilling jewel" and "illusive pearl of wisdom and truth" -- represented the first rank; a "gem," the second; coral, the third; and turquoise, the fourth.
blessed of olokun
The Far East may have been fond of its coral but nowhere has coral played a more significant role than in the historical and artistically sophisticated kingdom of Benin, now a part of the country of Nigeria. Governed from the fourteenth century by an all-powerful divine Oba, the 800-year-old kingdom came to an abrupt close in 1897.
Sir Ralph Moor (b.?-1909), Consul General of the Niger Coast Protectorate, had long argued that Benin -- of all the countries of Africa, the least affected by Europeans -- should be opened up to trade, "if necessary by force," an act that would complete Britain's occupation of southwestern Nigeria.
In what is now seen as a classic case of Britain's imperialism run wildly amok, in 1897, under the flimsiest of pretexts, a 1,200 member British force known as the "Punitive Expedition" (which also included black troops) captured, looted and burned the city of Benin City (Edo), destroying much of the country's treasured art or carrying it off -- much of which was later sold at auction to pay for the expedition -- and obliterating the power of the Oba.

oba ovonramwen university of laval

Six months later, when the fugitive 40-year-old Oba Ovonramwen Nogbaisi of Benin (r. 1888-1897) surrendered to the British, he did so by giving up his accouterments of royal power -- numerous ropes, collars, bracelets, anklets and belts of coral; coral encrusted shoes; an elaborate coral bead 'over' coat; a large 'leghorn' hat, also of coral; a coral and fabric crown with a tall coral finial, and more -- all of which served to connect him on some divine plane to Olokun, the Edo/Yoruba deity of the sea associated with wealth, fertility and beauty.
Minus the coral of his kingship, Oba Ovonramwen was deposed, tried and exiled to Calabar -- a town located on Nigeria's far eastern coast -- with only two of his eighty wives, while six of his chiefs were executed by the British. Nominally replaced by the British-friendly Chief Obaseki (retitled the "Iyase of Benin") -- who controlled many villages with rubber-producing forests -- and a "council of chiefs," real power resided with the British Resident.
the leopard and the oba The leopard was, and still is, a widespread symbol of authority and rulership in southern Nigeria, conferring by association the animal's characteristic beauty and elegance, as well as its deadliness, speed, and surety upon the wearer. Therefore, it's only fitting that the leopard serves as the Oba's animal counterpart.

Since the Oba was the only person in the kingdom of Benin who had the right to take human life, when he delegated his power to kill to his war leaders, he gave them leopard head pendants. The Edo proverb "the leopard has a good head, that is why he has the beads," reinforces a linkage between the Oba (whose coral-beaded attire exemplifies his own wealth, achievement, and position) and the leopard.

oba akenzua ii of benin (1899-1978)
photo: arkam

The first to wear the red coral ceremonial regalia, it is Oba Ewuare, somewhere around 1450, who is credited in oral tradition as the man who 'brought' coral to Benin when he stole the gem from the "goddess of the sea" (Olokun) at Ughoton (Gwatto) -- a village closely inter-woven with Benin myths and history. Since Ughoton was the 'gateway to Europe' in those days, some scholars believe it was more likely the white man, specifically the Portuguese, who brought coral to Benin, sourced from the Mediterranean or Cape Verde Islands.
john barbot in the kingdom of benin
John Barbot (?-d.1720), a French-born agent in the ivory and slave trade for the Royal African Company (RAC), who had emigrated from France to Britain with his brother (becaming a British subject in 1688), made at least two voyages to the West Coast of Africa, in 1678 and 1682. In the following excerpts -- originally published in France in 1682 and translated into English in 1746 -- Barbot describes some of the customs of the kingdom of Benin, known to Europeans at the time as "the Great Benin":

"From among those Reis de Ruas they commonly chuse the governors of provinces and towns; but every one of them is subordinate to, and dependent on the aforemention'd great Veadors, as being generally put into those imployments, by their recommendation to the king, who usually presents each of them, when so promoted to the government of provinces, towns or districts, with a string of coral, as an ensign or badge of this office; being there equivalent to an order of knight-hood in European courts.

"They are obliged to wear that string continually about their necks, without ever daring to put it off on any account whatsoever; and in case they lose it by carelessness, or any other accident, or if stolen from them, they forfeit their heads, and are accordingly executed without remission. And there have been instances of this nature, five men having been put to death for a string of coral so lost, tho' not intrinsically worth two-pence: the officer to whom the chain or string belong'd, because he had suffer'd it to be stolen from him, the thief who own'd he had stolen it, and three more who were privy to it, and did not timely discover it.

"This law is so rigidly observ'd, that the officers so intrusted with a string of coral by the king, whensoever they happen to lose it, though it be taken from about their necks by main force, immediately say, I am a dead man; and therefore regard no perils though ever so great, if there be hopes of recovering it by force from those who have stolen it.

"Therefore I advise all sea-faring Europeans, trading to those parts, never to meddle with the strings of coral belonging to any such officers, not even in jest; because the Black that permits it, is immediately sent for to the king, and by his order close imprisoned, and put to death.

"The same punishment is inflicted on any person whatsoever that counterfeits those strings of coral, or has any in his possession, without the king's grant."

oba with mudfish legs, supported by attendants chrisray

In 1914, after the death of the deposed Oba, to further their political purposes, the British magnanimously allowed his son, Oba Aiguobasimwin Eweka II (r. 1914-1933) to succeed him but left the new Oba only ceremonial powers.
His grandson, Solamon Eredieuwa II, a respected attorney in Nigeria, who took over the post in 1978, is the 38th descendant of the line. He is said to hold considerable political, albeit unofficial, influence in the Edo and Delta states of modern Nigeria
a touch of scarlet
Another culture for whom red is auspicious is that of Japan. There is a word in Japanese, ko itten, which means "touch of scarlet." The word is used as an affectionate term for women, especially geisha. Traditionally, maiko -- young geisha in training -- wear red undergarments. Depending on the season, geisha also wear crimson lining under their kimonos. And, both maiko and geisha wear bright red lipstick.
Enamoured of coral's most common color and its association with the demi-monde, it was the Japanese who started the modern coral trade in Taiwan in the early 1900's back when Taiwan was a colony of Japan. Before mechanization, Polynesian divers were often brought in to help harvest the coral. However, Taiwan's 'golden era' of coral trade didn't begin until about forty years ago when sophisticated mining technology was introduced from Japan.
ryujin, the dragon king
In Japanese mythology, the palace of Ryujin (also known as Rinjin), the Japanese dragon king, is built from red and white coral.

The palace -- guarded by dragons -- is full of treasure, especially the Tide Jewels, which control the ebb and flow of tidal waters. Fish and other sea life serve Ryujin as vassals, with the turtle acting as the dragon's main messenger.

dragon netsuke, mid 19th century, ivory and coral; genryosai, artist
photo: asian art

One of the most artistic but functional uses of coral in Japan was in the creation of netsuke (pronounced "neh-tsu-keh") -- an art form that originated from belt hangings used by nomads along the Silk Road and which has outlasted the function for which it was originally intended.
Today, netsuke is a collector's item, the best examples selling for many thousands of dollars.
what is netsuke?
Netsuke was 'invented' to serve a very practical function. Traditional Japanese garments -- kosode and kimono -- had no pockets. Men who wore them needed a place to keep personal belongings such as pipes, tobacco, money, seals, or medicines.

The elegant solution was to place such objects in containers (called sagemono) hung by cords from the robes' sash.

The containers might take the form of a pouch or a small woven basket, but the most popular were beautifully crafted boxes (inro), which were held shut by ojime (sliding beads on cords).

But whatever the form of the container, the fastener that secured its cord at the top of the sash was a carved, button-like toggle called a netsuke.
courage and protection
Coral, harvested from nearby reefs, also played a significant part in Mesoamerican culture, especially among the Mixtec (900-1250 AD), the ancient civilization of pre-colonial Mexico.

mask, teotihuacan, 300-650 ad. malinaltepec, stone, shells, obsidian, turquoise, corals
photo: hermitage museum

The Mixtec excelled in decorating masks, sacrificial knives, and other objects with mosaic inlays of coral, shell, turquoise, and other stones, as well as obsidian. Archeologist Alfonso Caso who in 1932 excavated the tomb of a Mixtec lord, found ornate pieces of jewelry made of amber, jade, coral and jet beads among other artifacts. Other sources cite finding "great barbaric necklaces of turquoise, jet and gold, of coral and jade and obsidian."
It was the Spanish who introduced red Mediterranean coral to Native Americans of the Southwest.

ruby throated hummingbird pendant pin; artists, harlan & monica coonsis

Before the Spanish conquest, the Navajo, Zuni and Pueblo used spondylus (spiny oyster shell) which is a pale orange.
A welcome addition to the Southwest palette, coral represents the blood of Mother Earth, bringing courage and protection. The deep red coral also makes a stunning contrast to the turquoise and silver with which it is often worked.